Like a pineapple meringue pie. But with booze.

All dark wood and 1,000 pounds per square inch of class, it shouldn’t come as any surprise when Sinatra’s “Chicago” comes on cue as you pull up a seat at the bar at Morton’s The Steakhouse. What does seem surprising is the creation they’re serving up that seems like it would be more at home on a lazy beach, surrounded by cracked shells, white sand and dark-skinned beauties.

The Palm Beach Infusion – affectionately referred to as the Palm Beacher by Morton’s staff – is ingenious in its simplicity. It all comes down to chilled, pineapple-infused vodka, which Morton’s makes in a big jug stuffed to the gills with pineapple and a dash of mint.

What sets it apart is when it’s served “heavenly.” Egg whites, pear, limoncello and Goldschlager are all whipped up and dispensed out of a nitrogen can to top the drink with a foamy, almost meringue-like layer before a mint sprig tops it all off.

John the bartender assures that it’s a refreshing drink that isn’t too sweet, that tables full of men are equally at home ordering it as the ladies. He’s right. It isn’t overpoweringly sweet. When taken in full, the cinnamon of the Goldschlager provides a base that prevents the pineapple from overwhelming with sweetness.

Just be careful not to take a mouthful of foam. The Goldschlager borders on overpowering if you don’t get the balance of the pineapple to maintain a consistent flavor. Then again, you could always order up more of the pineapple vodka and put that foam to good use.

By Jason Scavone

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